Ethiopia
Apr 4, 2026
This is Ethiopia?
Posted by Emilie

Discovering Addis Ababa on Our Layover
When we landed in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, we didn't expect much. Our flight with Ethiopian Airlines offered an extended stopover option in Addis on our way from Tanzania to Cairo, so we took it, and we ended up being so surprised about what we found here.

Addis Ababa, home to about six million people, is not only Ethiopia's capital but also the capital of the African Union. Ethiopia itself holds a unique place in history as the only African country never colonized.

Meeting Lucy at the National Museum
Our first stop was the National Museum of Ethiopia, where we came face-to-face with Lucy, our 3.2 million-year-old ancestor. Seeing her skeleton wasn't just interesting - it was overwhelming. I almost cried, standing there in awe of this direct link to humanity's story. Lucy represents a turning point in evolution: a hominid who stood upright, bridging the gap between chimpanzees and humans. Admission was just 50 Birr each, and beyond Lucy, the museum offered a fascinating look at Ethiopia's ancient and modern history.

Wide Streets, Parks, and Surprises
Walking through Addis, we couldn't get over how modern it felt. Huge sidewalks, inviting parks, and new buildings lined the streets. Before arriving, we had heard stories about crime and theft, but what we found was a city transformed. Locals told us that just a few years ago, walking around wasn't so pleasant. But now, thanks to massive beautification projects, Addis feels vibrant and welcoming.

At the Adwa Victory Memorial, we learned about Ethiopia's most significant triumph against colonialism: the Battle of Adwa in 1896, when Emperor Menelik II's forces defeated European invaders. That victory kept Ethiopia free from colonial rule, and the memorial stands as a reminder of the country's resilience.

Coffee, Fasting Menu, and Lugaimat
No trip to Ethiopia is complete without coffee. Here, it's not just a drink-it's part of the culture. After struggling with instant coffee in our last destination, Addis felt like paradise. We stopped at a cafe along Churchill Avenue for iced coffee, and Chris, the coffee drinker, loved it.

We visited the Haman Hotel for our first ever Ethiopian Fasting meal. We'd been seeing these dishes all over the city, along with traditional coffee service (complete with frankincense!), and it was absolutely delicious! And the entire meal, with drinks was under $10.

And then came dessert. We stumbled upon lugaimat/luqaimat: fried dough covered in chocolate and caramel-that instantly reminded us of the lukumades we loved in Athens.

Friendship Park and Local Stories
On our second day, we used the Yango ride-hailing app to reach Friendship Park. Entry was 150 Birr per person for foreigners, and inside we found Roman-inspired seating, lakeside views, and wildlife: ibises, herons, lizards, and more.

Talking with taxi drivers gave us more context. He explained that just two years ago, Addis wasn't this polished. Crime was more visible, and the city felt rougher. Today, though, it's clear that Addis is growing fast, with construction everywhere and a strong desire to represent itself well as Africa's diplomatic capital.

Challenges and Charm
Of course, Addis isn't without challenges. We saw long lines for gasoline, partly due to global conflicts, and noticed that pedestrian crossings could use improvement. But despite these issues, the city's energy, friendliness, and beauty stood out. People greeted us warmly, not because they wanted something, but simply to make us feel welcome.

Final Reflections
Addis Ababa wasn't just a layover - it was a revelation. We came expecting "just okay" and left wishing we had stayed longer. Between Lucy, the parks, the coffee, the desserts, and the sheer vibrancy of the city, Addis gave us more than we imagined. In retrospect, a few days weren't enough. Addis Ababa deserves more time, more exploration, and more appreciation. For us, it turned a stopover into a change in our perspective.

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